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Casting your own silicone toy

From printed mould to finished toy. For adults (18+). Every fact links to where it comes from.

Read this first. Nothing in this guide or in the tool proves that a home-made toy is safe for use on or in the body. Skin-safe silicone, a clean mould and a good cure make it likelier, not certain. You choose the materials and you carry the risk. Sources for each claim: see the end.

The process at a glance

1Design 2Render 3Print 4Prepare 5Mix, pour 6Cure 7Clean in the toolin the toolyour printerat the benchat the benchwaitbefore use
Two steps happen in the tool. The other five are at your bench.
  1. Design. Draw the profile (thickness along the length) and the path (the line it follows). Fix anything the Checks panel marks. Start from a template if you like, or press Randomizer for a surprise. Texture puts a relief over part of the length.
  2. Render. Press Render, then download the two mould halves as STL or 3MF, and the print sheet. It lists how much silicone and filament you need.
  3. Print the halves on your printer. Print the mould
  4. Prepare the halves: clean, seal, release agent, do a test patch. Prepare the mould
  5. Mix and pour the platinum silicone, slowly, from the base opening. Mix and pour
  6. Cure and demould. Wait the full time before you open the mould. Cure and demould
  7. Clean, store, use. Wash it and let it dry before the first use. Clean, store, use

What the mould looks like

Each part is explained on mould basics.

Section through the closed mould. The orange is the space the silicone fills: a funnel in the top face, the shape standing on its head under it, and a thin vent leaving the shoulder. A dashed line down the middle is where the two halves split, crossed by one alignment pin below the tip. A groove is cut into each side for a rubber band.

Cut down the middle, closed and ready to pour. Orange is the space the silicone fills.

  • The funnel in the top face is the base of your shape. The shape stands on its head, tip down.
  • The vent is the thin channel leaving the widest corner and going out of the top. Trapped air leaves there.
  • The dashed line is the parting line: the two halves split along it.
  • The pin crossing that line is one of six. They only let the halves close one way.
  • The grooves in the sides hold the rubber bands.
  • The pry slots (not drawn) cut across the joint at the corners. A screwdriver or a coin in one opens the mould.

Simplified. The real block is hexagonal outside, and the pins and vents sit where your design needs them.

What the tool does today

A laptop on a workbench showing a shape being drawn, the first step: design.
A laptop on a workbench showing the two mould halves the tool has built: one with pins, one with sockets, each with a channel for the toy in orange. A printed sheet lies beside it.

You draw the shape with two drawings: the profile (thickness along the length) and the path (the line it follows). Straighten and Smooth on the path, Surface on the profile (waves, ripples, sawtooth, Smooth, Simplify) and Scale (width and height by a percent) save hand work. Randomizer makes a new design from dice, and Undo brings yours back. In the preview you pick a colour or a base-to-tip gradient; that is for your eyes and does not change the print.

Texture. The Texture button lays a relief over part of the length. Choose from seventeen patterns: pimples, spikes, bumps, balls, grooves, pyramids, diamonds, hexagons, woven, diagonal ridges, veins, scales, wrinkles, leather, warts, coral, tentacle suckers. Sliders set the height (0.2 to 6 mm), the tile (the size of one repeat, up to 100 mm), where it starts and ends and how it fades in. Stretch spreads the pattern wider round the body (fewer repeats, wider lines and veins). Twist leans it so lines run at an angle or follow a curve. Spin turns the pattern round the body. Mask hides a slice of it (Mask fade softens its two edges so the pattern blends out), leaving 360 minus the Mask degrees showing from the Spin point; the slice turns and leans with the pattern, so Spin and Mask together isolate a single vein. With a very wide Stretch the pattern gets less than one repeat round the body and shows a seam, which Mask can hide. Rotate turns it in quarter turns and Invert sinks a raised pattern. Every number in the tool is a slider (Surface, Scale and Texture); only the length and the printer volume are typed. You see it live; Apply keeps it, Cancel (or Esc) puts it back. The panel stays open when you click elsewhere. The relief is carried into the object files and into the mould, so the cast comes out textured. Fine detail is hard to print and to pull out of silicone: the tool flags anything smaller than 1 mm, and deep or sharp patterns (spikes, coral) are the ones to demould slowly. This is my advice, not a tested figure: try a small piece first. Each mould half has the name and size engraved on the outside.

Flatten. Near the bottom right of the preview sits a small toolbox with Flatten, Texture and Scale. Flatten cuts a flat chord into one or more sides of the round cross-section: Top and Bottom are the two sides in the plane of the path (front and back), Left and Right the two sides out of it. Tick one, two or all four; the Amount slider sets how deep the cut goes, shared by every side you ticked; Start, End and Fade zone it along the length the same way as Texture. It never cuts past a 5 mm radius. Flatten runs before Texture, so a relief such as the tentacle suckers sits on the flat bed rather than on the round body. Apply keeps it, Cancel (or Esc) puts it back, same as Texture.

You draw the shape, check it, and download the object as STL or 3MF. The tool also tells you how much silicone to mix. Press Render and it designs a two-piece mould around your shape: a hexagonal block split along the centre line, with pins so the halves close one way, grooves for rubber bands, pry slots to open it, and vents where air could be trapped. Download the two STLs and print them. The steps from "Choose the silicone" onward apply to that mould, or to any mould you make yourself.

The size limits in the checks (5 mm radius minimum, 4 mm opening, 3 mm wall) are working defaults, not tested figures. They will be replaced by measured ones after a real print-and-cast run.

Two real casts, in photos

Two toys the author cast from moulds this tool made, in Reschimica RPRO 10, a shore 10 platinum silicone. Your silicone and your steps may differ; the sections below have the sources.

  1. The mould, as printed. Two halves, pins on one, sockets on the other.

    Two blue printed mould halves standing on a table, each with the hollow of a ribbed toy down its middle.The two mould halves lying open, showing the ribbed hollow and the pin holes on the flat face.

  2. Coat the inside with UV resin, thin and flat, and harden it under a UV lamp. It hides the layer lines and seals the print.

    A gloved hand squeezes UV resin from a bottle into a mould half.A mould half with a glossy coat of resin over the hollow.Mould halves under blue UV light while the resin hardens.

  3. Smear petroleum jelly (Vaseline) on the flat faces where the halves meet. It seals the joint so the silicone does not leak out. Keep it out of the hollow.

    Close-up of a mould half: the flat face round the hollow shines with a thin layer of petroleum jelly.

  4. Close the mould, put rubber bands in the grooves, and tape over the vent at the bottom.

    Two closed hexagonal moulds held with rubber bands. The name and size are etched on the side.The closed moulds with masking tape over the bottom end, next to a roll of tape.

  5. Weigh part A and part B on a kitchen scale, to the figure the tool gives, then stir in a few drops of silicone colour.

    A cup on a kitchen scale reading 162 g, with part A and part B layered in it.A box of eight small bottles of silicone colour.A hand drips yellow colour into a cup of mixed silicone.

  6. Pour slowly, in a thin stream from high up, into the funnel.

    Green silicone pours from a cup into the funnel of a closed mould.A thin stream of yellow silicone falls from a cup into the funnel of the second mould.

  7. Leave it alone for 24 hours.

    The mould full to the rim with yellow silicone, curing.

  8. Take off the bands and pull the halves apart. These moulds had no pry slots and were hard to open; the designer now cuts pry slots, for a screwdriver or a coin.

    A green cast standing out of the bottom half of its mould, with the rubber bands beside it.An opened mould: the yellow cast still lies in one half, the other half beside it.

  9. Done. Wash with dish soap to take off the petroleum jelly and any oil.

    The two finished casts, one green, one yellow and ribbed, standing side by side.

Choose the silicone

The short version is below. The long one, with what every label on the tin does and does not certify, is on which grades are body-safe.

Print the mould

A 3D printer on a workbench printing one half of the mould. The printed half, the one orange part, has a groove for the toy down its length and four socket holes.

The short version is below. The longer one, with what is sourced and what is not, is on printing a silicone mould.

Prepare the mould

A gloved hand sprays release agent into the two open mould halves, which lie on a bench. A brush and a folded cloth wait beside them.

Do these in order: smooth and coat, seal, release agent. Run the test patch (step 1) on the finished surface before the real pour.

  1. Run a test patch first. Platinum silicone will not cure against some surfaces, and that includes some 3D-printing plastics. [Polytek] Test on a small area: wall it off, pour, wait the demould time, then check for a gummy surface. [Polytek]
  2. Know what stops the cure. Dow lists amines, sulfur compounds, tin salts and phosphorus compounds. [Dow] Sulfur clay, latex, polyurethane rubber and some paints are named too. [Polytek] Do not use sulfur clay in the mould, and keep tin silicone away from platinum. [FAQ 104]
  3. Smooth and waterproof the inside (the author's method). After printing, sand the inside of both halves until the layer lines are gone. Then smear a thin, flat coat of UV-hardening resin over the sanded surface and cure it under UV light. The coat fills the layer lines and makes the inside waterproof and very smooth. Sand and coat every half, and keep the coat thin so it does not blur the shape or the pin fit. This step comes from the author's own casting, not from a listed source. Cure the resin fully: an incompletely cured resin surface can stop platinum silicone from curing. [FAQ 210] So run the test patch on the finished coat, not on bare print.
  4. Seal, then release. A porous print needs a sealer, then a release agent. For PLA and ABS Smooth-On pairs XTC-3D with Ease Release 200. [Smooth-On] Give the sealer at least 30 minutes to dry. [FAQ 104] A sealer may not stop inhibition on its own. [FAQ 104]
  5. Seal the joint (the author's method). Smear a thin layer of petroleum jelly on the flat faces where the halves meet, not in the hollow. It stops the silicone leaking through the joint. This comes from the author's own casting, not from a listed source. Wash it off the finished toy.
  6. Go light with the release agent. Too much causes pinhole bubbles. [FAQ 85] No page we read says release-agent residue is body safe, so wash the finished toy well.

Mix and pour

A gloved hand pours mixed silicone, in orange, from a beaker into the funnel on top of the closed mould, which stands upright with rubber bands round it. A second cup stands on a scale.

How much to mix: the quick calculator.

Cure and demould

The closed mould standing upright on the bench while the silicone cures.

Clean, store, use

The finished cast standing on a folded cloth in front of the two empty mould halves, with a bottle of soap and a soft brush to one side.

Before you use it: safety.

Materials and links

You need: platinum silicone, mixing cups and sticks, a release agent and sealer, a vacuum chamber (optional), filament for the mould, water-based lube. Shop links on this site, when there are any, sit in boxes marked Ad. They are affiliate links: if you buy, the site may earn a commission, at no extra cost to you. Read the datasheet before buying, whatever the box says.

Learn more about silicone casting

Read on 2026-09-20; pages change. These are outside sites, not endorsements.

Sources

Read on 2026-09-20. Pages change; check the current datasheet. The full list, with what each page says and where the sources disagree, is in docs/GUIDE-SOURCES.md in the project. Health pages: WebMD (medically reviewed), Healthline (medically reviewed), Planned Parenthood Toronto. Manufacturer pages: Smooth-On, Dow, Polytek, Prusa, SSP, Mann. Retailer and hobby pages are marked as such in the text.